Sport and Alpine climbing in the Salzburg region
A sport which was once the preserve of the "wild boys"
The Salzburg region not only offers via ferrata fans plenty of opportunities for their holidays; with its superb limestone rocks, it also offers attractive tours to sport- and Alpine climbers.
From the small and often hidden-away sports climbing gardens through to the high peaks of the Tennengebirge mountains, visitors can expect to find both roped-party adventures and an incomparable mountain panorama.
Sports climbing gardens in the Pongau & Tennengau
The Salzach- and Lammertal are home to some of the most attractive sports climbing options in the Salzburg region. You are only a few minutes' drive from the numerous sports climbing gardens. Or would you prefer an extended tour with a walk? The Hofpürglhütte climbing garden and the climbing garden at the Werfnerhütte are the ideal destinations for combined tours.
Small and Great Lueg Pass (pass height)
- Distance: approx. 30 minutes
- Ascent: 5 minutes
- Difficulty level: 3-9+ UIAA (French 3-8a)
- Number of routes: Small Lueg Pass 25, pass height 51
- Lengths of the routes: 20-35 metres
Two attractive sports climbing gardens with good security arrangements are situated on the Lueg Pass between Bischofshofen and Golling. The climbing gardens on the Small Lueg Pass are ideal for beginners, since many of the tours in the area which isn't quite vertical do not exceed the 6th level UIAA (France 5c). In the right hand area, in contrast, there are more challenging tours, such as the rewarding "Pölkstoff" (8 UIAA/ French 7a) in handy rock.
In the Great Lueg Pass a little further towards Golling there are many medium to hard tours (5- - 9+ UIAA/French 5a-8a) as well as opportunities to try out multi-pitch routes.
Climbing garden in Schwarzach
- Distance: approx. 35 minutes
- Ascent: 1 minute
- Difficulty level: 5-9+ UIAA (French 4c-7c)
- Number of routes: approx. 25-30
- Length of the routes: 20-35 metres
From the centre of Schwarzach im Pongau, the path bears to the left and leads up to the Staudamm and on to a small car park, where there is a popular climbing garden with a southern prospect. The small area of woodland here protects climbers from the sun in the summer. Some of the easier tours on the wall are already a little "slippery". Between the 7th and 9th level UIAA (French 6b-7c) the rock is handy, however.
Hofpürgelhütte climbing garden
- Distance: approx. 30 minutes
- Ascent: 40-60 minutes
- Difficulty level: 3-9+ UIAA (French 3-8a)
- Number of routes: +300
- Length of the routes: between 8-40 metres
From the car park at the Unterhof and Oberhalfalm, after a moderate ascent to the Hofpürgelhütte, you will reach one of the biggest climbing gardens in the Alps. The numerous rock faces go in every direction, and offer immediately accessible tours at every difficulty level from the spring all the way through to the late autumn. In addition to the sports climbing garden, the Gosaukamm also offers some multi-pitch routes on the surrounding peaks, such as the lower Großwandeck, the Däumling or the great Bischofsmütze.
Werfnerhütte climbing garden
- Distance: 35 min.
- Ascent: 1.5 to 2.5 hours
- Difficulty level: 4-8- (French 4-6c)
- Number of routes: 25
- Length of the routes: 15-30 metres
The Werfenerhütte in the Tennen Mountains is right on the south side of the Tennen Mountains in the foothills of the Hochthron, and is accessible from both the Unterholz car park (1.5 hours ascent) as well as from the car park at the Wengerau guest house (2.5 hours ascent). In addition to the many tours in the medium difficulty levels, some multi-pitch versions are also available on the Hochthron. Additional Alpine tours are also accessible with short to medium ascents.
Detailed reading matter on the topic of sports climbing in the Salzburg region and Berchtesgaden is available in the book "RockProjects - Kletterführer Salzburg Berchtesgaden: Klettern im Salzburger- und Berchtesgadener Land".
Alpine climbing and sports multi-pitch routes
The area between Gosaukamm and the Tennengebirge Mountains is home to some of the most attractive Alpine tours in the Salzburg region. If you read the route descriptions, you will regularly come across the big names who have explored the climbing facilities here for the first time and secured the routes.
Climbing in the Tennengebirge Mountains
Almost on the doorstep of the Lämmerhof Alpine guest house are several exciting Alpine tours in the best high mountain limestone. The ascents are manageable within a time frame of 2-4 hours. Climbers value the Tennen Mountains as being a gem of nature and an insider's tip away from the crowds. Multi-pitch tours such as the "Jailhouse Rock" (8 pitch lengths, 6+/7- UIAA/French 6a+), the "Tauerngold" (6 pitch lengths, 7- UIAA/French 6a+), or the ,"Champagne" (6 pitch lengths, 7 UIAA/French 6b), offer breathtaking panoramic views.
Climbing in the Gosaukamm
An old sea reef with the distinctive Bischofsmütze between the Dachstein massive and Tennengebirge Mountains isn't only popular in the summer due to its numerous Alpine lodges, the famous Tennengau Alpine cheese and the well signposted hiking trails. Among rock climbers, the Bischofsmütze is considered to be the number one tour destination in the Gosaukamm, yet the Kamm, which climbing legend Paul Preuß was the first to conquer some 100 years ago, also offers some other worthwhile multi-pitch tours in the shape of the Salzburger Pfeiler, the Angerstein and naturally the Bischofsmütze.
In the "Auswahlführer Best of Genuss Band 1 - Salzburger- & Berchtesgadener Land: Alpine Genussklettereien von 3 bis 7" you have an overview of the most attractive Alpine routes in the Salzburg region.
Climbing gyms in the Pongau and Tennengau
Although some climbing gardens are suitable for days when the weather doesn't hold up, the numerous climbing halls in the region also attract visitors. Here is an overview of some of them:
- OeAV Kletterhalle Werfen (25 km): Werfen 22, 5450 Werfen
- OeAV Klettercenter am Bürgerausee in Kuchl (45 km): Markt 126b, 5431 Kuchl
- OeAV Boulderhalle Hallein (53 km): Neualmerstraße 33, 5400 Hallein
- felsenfest Kletterhalle Saalfelden (65 km): Leoganger Strasse 30a, 5760 Saalfelden
- DAV Kletterzentrum Berchtesgaden (70 km): Watzmannstraße 4, D-83483 Bischofswiesen
- Kletterhalle Salzburg (75 km): Wasserfelderstraße 23, 5020 Salzburg
- Boulderbar Salzburg (75 km): Richard Kürth Strasse 9, 5020 Salzburg
The perfect starting point for your Alpine adventure
Situated between the Tennengebirge Mountains and the Gosaukamm Massif, the Lämmerhof Alpine guest house is the ideal starting place for your sports activities on the rocks, whether it is rock climbing, sports climbing in well-secured climbing gardens, or Alpine multi-pitch routes on the surrounding peaks which were initially explored by climbing legends like Paul Preuß and Albert Precht.
The Hedegger family will be pleased to provide you with personal assistance during your stay at the Lämmerhof Alpine guest house and to give you detailed route descriptions, topography tips and weather reports for your planned climbing holiday in the Salzburg region. Please send us your non-binding enquiry or online booking for your summer holiday in the Salzburg mountains.
